{"id":985,"date":"2008-09-20T23:37:21","date_gmt":"2008-09-20T21:37:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/?p=11"},"modified":"2008-09-20T23:37:21","modified_gmt":"2008-09-20T21:37:21","slug":"a-tohle-nebyla-zadna-prochazka-skogar-landmannalaugar-trek","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/2008\/09\/20\/a-tohle-nebyla-zadna-prochazka-skogar-landmannalaugar-trek\/","title":{"rendered":"A tohle nebyla \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 proch\u00e1zka (Sk\u00f3gar -> Landmannalaugar 90km trek)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Den 1 Sk\u00f3gar &#8211; Th\u00f3rsmork (B\u00e1sar) ; 29 km<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>No jasn\u011b, odjet z Islandu a neproj\u00edt si \u201eone of the greatest walks in the world\u201c (osam\u011bl\u00e1 planeta to fakt takhle ozna\u010duje)  by byl h\u0159\u00edch. Tak\u017ee jsme si p\u011bkn\u011b zabalili sv\u00fdch 25kg \u0161vestek, nafingovali \u00faklid prostor, kter\u00e9 jsme celou dobu ob\u00fdvali a vyrazili. Do de\u0161t\u011b. Nic nenorm\u00e1ln\u00edho, takov\u00e1 islandsk\u00e1 klasika. Hodinku, dv\u011b, t\u0159i\u2026 jsme stoupali podle \u0159eky Sk\u00f3gy a furt norm\u00e1ln\u00ed slejv\u00e1k. To samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nenechalo na m\u00fdch \u201eoutdoorov\u00fdch\u201c man\u0161estr\u00e1k\u00e1ch nit suchou. (J\u00e1 vim, jsem blbec chodit jen s dobrou bundou a bez nepromokavejch kalhot, ale kdy\u017e v novin\u00e1ch p\u00ed\u0161ou, \u017ee Hudy Hude\u010dek stejn\u011b sv\u00fdm Fkem skoro nejezd\u00ed <a href=\"http:\/\/ihned.cz\/c4-10036830-26520680-000000_d-strach-muze-byt-prijemny-pocit\">http:\/\/ihned.cz\/c4-10036830-26520680-000000_d-strach-muze-byt-prijemny-pocit<\/a> , tak to \u010dlov\u011bku \u00fapln\u011b veme chu\u0165 utr\u00e1cet a vyd\u011bl\u00e1vat mu na benz\u00edn.)<\/p>\n<p>A pr\u00e1v\u011b mokr\u00e9 man\u0161estr\u00e1ky byly z\u00e1rukou opravdov\u00e9 zimy, kdy\u017e jsme se bl\u00ed\u017eily k prvn\u00edmu sedlu \u2013 d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 toti\u017e pr\u00e1v\u011b za\u010d\u00ednal p\u0159ech\u00e1zet do veselej\u0161\u00ed f\u00e1ze \u2013 ostr\u00fd \u0159ez\u00e1k hnan\u00fd velk\u00fdm v\u011btrem do obli\u010deje s p\u0159\u00edm\u011bs\u00ed krup. S povd\u011bkem jsme teda vlezli do chatr\u010de ozna\u010den\u00e9 jako Baldvinssk\u00e1li, kde u\u017e se schov\u00e1valo n\u011bco Francouz\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>Dali jsme trochu \u010dokol\u00e1dy a pokra\u010dovali zvesela v pochodu mlhou a de\u0161t\u011bm. Za chvilku odbo\u010dka na chatu Fimmv\u00f6rduskali a t\u00edm p\u00e1dem i nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed bod dne\u0161n\u00edho dne. P\u0159ed n\u00e1mi skupina Francouz\u016f a tmav\u00e9 (+de\u0161tiv\u00e9) z\u00edt\u0159ky. Ale to jsme je\u0161t\u011b nev\u011bd\u011bli. <\/p>\n<p>Skupinu Francouz\u016f jsme ladn\u00fdm krokem p\u0159edstihli a po celkem dlouh\u00e9m sestupu jsme se dostali do c\u00edle na\u0161\u00ed cesty &#8211; B\u00e1saru. Ten pro m\u011b byl trochu zklam\u00e1n\u00edm, proto\u017ee jsem tajn\u011b doufal, \u017ee bude pln\u00fd t\u0159ic\u00edtek, star\u00fdch pi\u00e1n a jin\u00e9 hav\u011bti. Nebyl. Nen\u00ed B\u00e1sar jako bazar.<\/p>\n<p>V de\u0161ti jsme postavili mokr\u00fd stan a \u0161li sp\u00e1t do mokr\u00fdch spac\u00e1k\u016f. <\/p>\n<p><strong>Den 2  B\u00e1sar \u2013 Emstrur ; 17 km<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>R\u00e1no (poledne) jsme se zvedli do m\u00edrn\u00e9ho de\u0161t\u011b, kter\u00fd postupn\u011b ust\u00e1val a den se tak stal jedin\u00fdm such\u00fdm na cel\u00e9m treku. Zam\u00ed\u0159ili jsme ke startu cel\u00e9 Laugavegur (nejfrekventovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00fasek mezi Th\u00f3rsmorkem a Landmannalaugarem. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 se p\u0159echodem \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Krossa, kde je na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed l\u00e1vka\u2026 ne tak pro auta (co\u017e je na Islandu skoro pravidlem) a proto\u017ee zrovna Krossa nen\u00ed z t\u011bch men\u0161\u00edch \u0159\u00ed\u010dek ka\u017ed\u00fd rok za\u017eije spousta turist\u016f i m\u00edstn\u00edch zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 okam\u017eiky (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=cd1p2d5hhUQ\">http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=cd1p2d5hhUQ<\/a> nebo t\u0159eba  <a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=P94rcZSuTT8\">http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=P94rcZSuTT8<\/a> ).<\/p>\n<p>Kousek za Thorsmorkem n\u00e1s ale stejn\u011b \u010dek\u00e1 prvn\u00ed brod\u011bn\u00ed, kter\u00e9 \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011b zvl\u00e1d\u00e1me a pokra\u010dujeme sm\u011brem do campu v Emstruru. Celkov\u011b mi tahle pas\u00e1\u017e treku p\u0159i\u0161la nejm\u00e9n\u011b z\u00e1\u017eivn\u00e1. Asi t\u00edm po\u010das\u00edm.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Den 3 Emstrur \u2013 \u00c1lftavatn ; 16 km<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Startujeme pom\u011brn\u011b r\u00e1no (na na\u0161e pom\u011bry) s varov\u00e1n\u00edm od wardenky, \u017ee se bl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed bou\u0159ky. Prvn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st treku pom\u011brn\u011b nudn\u00e1 (p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b pou\u0161\u0165 s \u010dern\u00fdm p\u00edskem) v dal\u0161\u00ed f\u00e1zi pak brod, most, chalupa a t\u00e1bo\u0159i\u0161t\u011b Hvanngil (nestav\u00edme) dal\u0161\u00ed brod a kone\u010dn\u011b jezero \u00c1lftavatn s t\u00e1bo\u0159i\u0161t\u011bm. V pr\u016fb\u011bhu dne se samoz\u0159ejm\u011b po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b rozpr\u0161elo, nicm\u00e9n\u011b coby zn\u00e1mej skrbl\u00edk stejn\u011b p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm o nocov\u00e1n\u00ed ve stanu. Kamil nen\u00ed proti. Tak jdeme do warden\u2019s office zaplatit to a tam se na n\u00e1s sle\u010dna pod\u00edv\u00e1 jak na bl\u00e1zny, \u017ee v nast\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed bou\u0159i chceme sp\u00e1t venku. Tak se pt\u00e1m jestli to bude \u201ereally bad\u201c v noci a dost\u00e1v\u00e1 se mi uji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, \u017ee to bude \u201eREALLY, REALLY BAD\u201c. Bereme teda m\u00edsto na paland\u011b v chaloupce (cena v roce 08 je 800 ISK za osobu ve stanu a 3000 ISK za osobu v chaloupce na paland\u011b \u2013 to by se mohlo n\u011bkomu hodit) a jsme r\u00e1di, proto\u017ee v\u00edtr v noci m\u00e1lem bo\u0159\u00ed i chalupu. Stan by byl ur\u010dit\u011b na ka\u0161i. <\/p>\n<p><strong>Den 4 \u00c1lftavatn \u2013 Hrafntinnusker ; 12 km<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Probuzen\u00ed do de\u0161t\u011b a vichru. Moc se n\u00e1m nechce, ale vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme. Jako jedni z m\u00e1la ten den. V\u011bt\u0161ina rozumn\u00fdch lid\u00ed ven nechod\u00ed, kdy\u017e je hl\u00e1\u0161en v\u00edtr 160 km\/h\u2026 ze za\u010d\u00e1tku se n\u00e1m ale nejde \u0161patn\u011b. Fouk\u00e1 jen trochu a pr\u0161\u00ed jen o trochu v\u00edc. Zima docela velk\u00e1. Probl\u00e9m nast\u00e1v\u00e1 p\u0159i p\u0159\u00edchodu k brodu. Nejd\u0159\u00edv se je\u0161t\u011b zhor\u0161\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed,  a pak\u2026 a ani jednomu se nechce brodit, tak \u0161pekulujeme jak \u0159\u00ed\u010dku p\u0159ekonat. Chod\u00edme po proudu a proti proudu, ale m\u00edsto kde p\u0159esko\u010dit prost\u011b nen\u00ed. Dvakr\u00e1t u\u017e jsem rozhodnut\u00fd sundat boty a brodit, ale ve v\u011btru, de\u0161ti a zim\u011b nen\u00ed koup\u00e1n\u00ed nic moc. Tak\u017ee volim variantu skok, na jedin\u00e9m \u201ep\u0159\u00edhodn\u00e9m\u201c m\u00edst\u011b. Nadechnout, raz-dva-t\u0159i-hop. Dopad\u00e1m na vyhl\u00e9dnut\u00fd k\u00e1men na druh\u00e9m b\u0159ehu, kter\u00fd s moj\u00ed levou nohou zaj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed pod vodu (voda a\u017e nad koleno) a zbytek t\u011bla s sebou pl\u00e1cne na \u0161utry na b\u0159ehu. R\u00e1na do hlavy a do lokte\u2026 chvilku poskakuju a sakruju, ale vlastn\u011b mi nic nen\u00ed. Kamil je\u0161t\u011b chv\u00edli vyb\u00edr\u00e1 a pom\u011b\u0159uje vodn\u00ed tok, aby nakonec sundal boty, p\u0159ebrodil a roz\u0159\u00edzl si p\u0159itom nohu. Tak\u017ee taky nic moc. Hned za \u0159ekou brut\u00e1ln\u00ed kopec nahoru. Vy\u0161lapanou cesti\u010dkou te\u010de rozvodn\u011bn\u00fd pot\u016f\u010dek, to u\u017e n\u00e1m ale m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt jedno, jsme stejn\u011b jako dv\u011b houby. Nad nejvet\u0161\u00edm kopcem se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 ohl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fd vichr a pom\u00e1h\u00e1 n\u00e1m tak p\u0159ekonat \u00fazk\u00e9 h\u0159eb\u00ednky (krok dop\u0159edu a z\u00e1rove\u0148 t\u0159i stranou, ohromn\u00e1 legrace). Nav\u00edc je trochu i mlha, tak\u017ee \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd velk\u00fd j\u00e1sot nad bublaj\u00edc\u00edm bahnem a stoupaj\u00edc\u00ed p\u00e1rou okolo stezky zrovna neprojevujeme. Nakonec p\u0159ed sebou vid\u00edme chalupu Hrafntinnusker a d\u00e1v\u00e1me se skoro do b\u011bhu. T\u011bch dvan\u00e1ct kil\u00e1k\u016f jsme dali ve skv\u011bl\u00e9m \u010dase, a i vysu\u0161en\u00ed se celkem povedlo, ale proto\u017ee dole v Landmannalaugaru \u00fadajn\u011b nen\u00ed m\u00edsto v chalup\u011b a stan je prost\u011b blbost, tak zust\u00e1v\u00e1me p\u0159es noc.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Den 4 Hrafntinnusker \u2013 Landmannalaugar ; 12 km<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Slibovan\u00e9 lep\u0161\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed po\u0159\u00e1d nikde. Tak\u017ee zase vyl\u00e9zt a po 15-ti minut\u00e1ch b\u00fdt durch. U\u017e mi to ani nep\u0159ijde. Z ni\u010deho nic se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 k de\u0161ti i sn\u00edh. Chce se mi sm\u00e1t. \ud83d\ude42<br \/>\nDo Laugaru p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme op\u011bt velice rychle, mo\u017en\u00e1 bohu\u017eel, proto\u017ee m\u00edstn\u00ed chalupa je p\u0159ecpan\u00e1 lidma a m\u00edstn\u00ed pani, kter\u00e1 se o chalupu star\u00e1 je nejnep\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010dlov\u011bk za celou n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Islandu. V busu do Selfossu n\u00e1sledn\u011b us\u00edn\u00e1m a probud\u00ed m\u011b a\u017e nucen\u00e1 odst\u00e1vka autobusu, jeho\u017e chladi\u010d dostal pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b r\u00e1nu kamenem p\u0159i brod\u011bn\u00ed a kter\u00fd pr\u00e1v\u011b za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 va\u0159it. Island. \ud83d\ude42 A u\u017e se ani nedivim.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Den 1 Sk\u00f3gar &#8211; Th\u00f3rsmork (B\u00e1sar) ; 29 km No jasn\u011b, odjet z Islandu a neproj\u00edt si \u201eone of the greatest walks in the world\u201c (osam\u011bl\u00e1 planeta to fakt takhle ozna\u010duje) by byl h\u0159\u00edch. Tak\u017ee jsme si p\u011bkn\u011b zabalili sv\u00fdch 25kg \u0161vestek, nafingovali \u00faklid prostor, kter\u00e9 jsme celou dobu ob\u00fdvali a vyrazili. Do de\u0161t\u011b. Nic [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[4],"tags":[129,179,307,336,345],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/985"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=985"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/985\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=985"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=985"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.marosh.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=985"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}